As I neared the turn toward Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate, a man was herding his cattle in a fresh green field peppered with white and yellow flowers. In the distance, the distinct lines of the Helderberg Mountains served as a visual reminder of the fact that I was finally in the Cape again – a place I have grown very fond of over the years for so many reasons. One of them being, of course, the incredible food and wine experiences to be had. That’s also what brought me to this Somerset West-based wine estate most recently.
Chef Michelle Theron welcomed me to an intimate tasting room – a space that has been aptly elevated to complement the wines, so elegantly presented. We joked about the enormous chickens peeking through the windows as we sipped on a glass of Vergenoegd Löw MCC Chenin Blanc. Clearly at home here, she knows these chicks’ every move, having predicted that they would come past. Chef Michelle knows how things work on the estate, and why they work. In fact, she’s come to understand the value of slowing down and now incorporates that into her approach when it comes to menu planning, plating and food and wine experiences. She explains that allowing the farm’s inner workings to dictate her pace has given her new perspective and she now sees things that might have previously gone unnoticed. In the end, it’s those things that inspire her creativity in the kitchen, making her a chef to be reckoned with.
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As we looked across the courtyard beyond the tasting room’s large windows, it wasn’t just farm life that piqued my interest. Construction was underway and from what I could gather, a new era is dawning at Vergenoegd Löw where hospitality is concerned. The wine farm is currently undergoing an extensive refurbishment, with a lot of changes soon to be implemented at Geuwels, Clara’s and more. My visit had one main purpose and that was to get a glimpse of what’s coming…
The gentle MCC Chenin Blanc we kicked the visit off with – one that speaks to the merroir of the farm – served as the first wine in Chef Michelle’s latest offering. Towards the end of the month, she will be launching what she calls an Indigenous Tasting Experience at Vergenoegd Löw, consisting of a round, wooden plate, artfully filled with a range of locally inspired mini courses, each accompanying one of the farm’s merroir-reflecting wines. From roosterkoek with fish and a kei apple jam and the most delicious Caesar Salad – elevated with bokkoms instead of anchovies – to Dexter Beef carpaccio and the most delicious dark chocolate brownie with spekboom, each of these miniature courses were prepared with the goal of letting the wine it was paired with, shine. A young vine chenin blanc surprised the palate, while a pastry and prosciutto course complemented the chardonnay beautifully. The Rosé – almost rose gold in colour – not only looked beautiful in the glass, but it also went surprisingly well with an Ouma rusk-inspired cracker topped with Amazi and pickled radish. Bites like these are what excites me when it comes to South African cuisine. Not only do they prove the chef’s talent for taking local flavours, textures and traditions and giving it new life, but they encourage conversation around heritage.
Vergenoegd Löw is traditionally known for its red wines, hence the second half of the tasting experience was one I’d been looking forward to. Packed with unique, marine-driven elements on both the nose and the palate, these wines and their accompaniments called for a renewed appreciation of South African wines. Whether you’re a fan of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, both these Vergenoegd Löw wines come highly recommended. The latter was my favourite by far – the perfect pairing for either a proper piece of steak or a rich, indulgent chocolate brownie. If you enjoy fortified wines, you also can’t go wrong with a cheese platter and a glass of their Cape Vintage Port.
As Vergenoegd Löw’s iconic runner ducks came waddling past – almost as if performing in the grand finale of a day well spent – I realised: this is a farm where sense of place is reflected in every pour and on every plate. Come late summer, you’ll also be able to experience it all in a whole new light, with delightful deck dining, Sunday lunches, pre-dinner tastings, farm teas and more. I, for one, am incredibly excited to return to Vergenoegd Löw for the renewed hospitality experience.
Lovely report of an icon wine estate. Can’t wait to visit and try Michelle’s menu .
She’s got some incredible plans!! Do let me know when you’ve been – would love to hear about your experience. 🙂