The sustainable fashion industry is probably one of the most difficult industries to navigate, if you ask me. With the world’s eyes on various global stages, it’s quite the leap to showcase your designs at any of the many fashion weeks that take place worldwide, especially since it goes way deeper than just the textiles over your shoulders. One thing is for sure, though: when you do it right, you’ll undoubtedly gain a loyal following.
South Africa is rich in design talent – not only in fashion, but in other design disciplines too. In fact, it often happens that fashion designers come from another design world first before landing in fashion. Sometimes, it’s these designers who understand the importance of social, economic and sustainable responsibility and some are truly making a difference through textile development, fashion design and sustainable practices.
LaaniRaani
Shamyra Moodley’s brand has sustainable fashion written all over it. In fact, she once told Twyg.co.za that she does not know how to design any other way. “I breathe sustainability,” she said. Her passion for fashion comes from her love for colour, texture and designing items that spark joy and today, her timeless, yet quirky designs form her narrative. “I design intuitively,” she says. “This is what I love, my passion and purpose and the rest I will figure out along the way.”
Moodley is a South African-Irish-Indian accountant turned fashion designer and like this blog, her brand was also born in 2020, at the height of the Covid-19 pandemic. Her designs are different and true to her heritage, making it stand out beautifully. Through her designs and her platform, she educates and creates awareness around planet and people friendly wearable art.
Sindiso Khumalo
Bold, bright and feminine, Sindiso Khumalo highlights South African heritage and history with sustainability, craft and empowerment. All the items in the brand’s collections seem to reach beyond the trends and the seasons; it’s clothing with intent. Khumalo designs all the textiles used in her garments – based on her drawings, watercolours and abstract cutouts.
Like Moodley, she also did not start out in fashion, but rather in architecture. She later went on to a Masters degree in Textiles Futures at the Central Saint Martins, which eventually kickstarted her career as sustainable textile designer.
She says: “Clothing can be a form of medicine. It can evoke emotions and make you feel strong, alive and empowered. That’s what I want to bring to my designs, making women feel empowered, exceptional and unique.”
READ: 19 Local Fashion Brands on a Mission to Redefine Luxury, Sustainably
Kat van Duinen
A label known for its premier exotic leather and fashion products, Kat van Duinen creates African luxury in both the fashion and lifestyle sectors. The brand’s collections embody contemporary shapes and precise tailoring, complemented by intricate hand beading and celebrates the beauty and diversity of Africa. Through this label, luxury meets sustainability and craftsmanship meets art.
Van Duinen takes pride in her ethical approach to fashion and believes that sustainability and responsibility are essential components of luxury. “We strive to make a positive impact on both people and the planet,” she says. They source their leather from authorised and regulated farms and breeders and the skins used are all legally and ethically sourced. The brand offers a complete chain transparency, from the materials’ origin to manufacturing.
MAXHOSA by Laduma Ngxokolo
Defined as a cultural luxury brand, MAXHOSA AFRICA was founded in 2010 through the referencing and evolution of traditional Xhosa beadwork aesthetics. It has since expanded its vision to embrace and reimagine aesthetics from diverse African cultures. The brand manufactures in Africa, using local resources, and is driven by a core value of contributing to the growth of the African economy.
Tshepo Jeans
Founder, Tshepo Mohlala’s purpose with this label was clear: he wanted to connect with people through the stories that the brand’s designs tell. Raised by three strong women, he says his grandmother’s words echo in his mind to this day: “Tshepo, you’re a gentleman and should always look like one.” His aunt’s fashion sense also ignited his interest in the industry and his love for denim. He is committed to the development of denim and through the promotion of Africanism and localisation, TSHEPO honours the textile’s ability to stand the test of time.
“We believe that our main responsibility is to create desirable and functional items that our consumers value and can enjoy for a lifetime. Each product tells a true story,” he says. Of course, when the person making these garments is happy and makes them with love, Tshepo also believes the jeans fit better.
Hemp Love
This brand’s founders, Lorè and Lara, see it as their responsibility to educate and create awareness about industrial hemp and its uses on local, national and international platforms. Through various collaborations, they continue to give back to communities, improving the quality of life of women and children in Africa – all in an honest, humble and respectful way.
The fabric they use consists of blends of hemp, with smaller amounts of cotton or silk. Ideally, they would like to manufacture their garments out of pure hemp in future.
“You see, sustainability goes far and wide, and much deeper than we perceive it to be,” their website states. “It is not a marketing gimmick. Sustainability and transparency go hand in hand and cannot be separated from each other.”
Lukhanyo Mdingi
Continued collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative has essentially formed the heart of this brand‘s commitment to social impact through the vehicle of design. Mdingi understands the profound potential of social and ecological consciousness and apart from the label’s commitment to social responsibility, its production process also adheres to ecologically conscious practices.
For Mdingi, the label is an ever-evolving emergence of consideration, community and timeless design. In fact, its practices are centered around relationships formed through collaborations with artisans like expert weavers from PHILANI in Khayelitsha, Cape Town and textile artisans at CABES GIE in Burkina Faso. These symbiotic connections with other humans are ultimately what inspires Mdingi to conceptualise the label’s collections. He believes that the essence of creating meaningful and intelligent design starts with human beings.
Daisie Jo
Embracing imperfections and being human are the core ambitions of this brand, making it a wonderful fit for anyone who values honesty over perfection. Daisie Jo not only uses its craft – passed down from generations – to manufacture garments, but also to create opportunities and train new generations. Skill transferring, investing in quality and creating wearable, useful art are what drive them. Think limited edition pieces that are hand crafted – slow fashion, locally produced. The brand always strives towards sustainability, with handmade textiles at its core.
Michael Ludwig
Inspired by a psychological approach to fashion and fluid identity in South Africa, Michael Ludwig creates contemporary luxury, reimagined. With every piece made to measure, the design studio’s demi-couture garments offer an intimate journey of confidence and comfort.
They practice zero-waste pattern cutting (with a maximum of 3% off-cut), repurposing every scrap into bindings, linings and detailing. The studio is also powered by low-energy machinery and locally sourced textiles, which minimises its environmental impact while upholding fair wages and a joyful working environment.
Ticking all the boxes of being a sustainable fashion brand is no easy feat and a journey, no less. While there is always room for improvement, these brands understand the value and the purpose of being intentional in their processes and that is what places them at the top of the list for me when it comes to shopping sustainable fashion in South Africa.
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