With its red-brown tentacles, the curious creature maneuvered its way from one rock to another, camouflaging itself to hopefully draw less attention. Gracefully gliding from one rockpool to the next, it showed off its beautiful colours, finally shooting off into a deeper pool. Spotting an octopus in its natural habitat was a first for me – one of a few truly raw experiences that emphasised the uniqueness of the Mkambati Nature Reserve and its recently opened GweGwe Beach Lodge.
Privileged to be hosted by the Natural Selection lodge, it was with great excitement that I explored the wildness and unspoilt beauty of the reserve on which it’s based. In fact, I have new-found respect for those working tirelessly to not only conserve special pockets of land such as the Eastern Cape’s Mkambati Nature Reserve, but to also uplift those living on and around it. The GweGwe Beach Lodge project is one fueled by passion and purpose and it’s been in the making for twenty years.
GweGwe Beach Lodge
You can travel to GweGwe Beach Lodge by road, boat or plane. As part of a group of travel journalists, I was destined for the latter, with a small plane that lifted us up into the blue sky from the Virginia Airport in Durban. From there, the pilots treated us to the most spectacular views of the KwaZulu-Natal coastline as we headed toward Pondoland. Down below, waves rhythmically danced toward the beach, with some of Durban’s tallest buildings just beyond. And, as we came closer to the Mkambati Nature Reserve, signs of civilization disappeared and all we could see were green hills, dotted with Pondo huts here and there.
On arrival, our hosts grabbed our luggage and we were ushered into a second game vehicle, for a quick drive to help us find our bearings. Vast grasslands stretched far and wide to our left, while to our right, we could see zebra grazing against the backdrop of the Indian Ocean. A surreal image for anyone used to Limpopo’s bushveld vistas! Finally, as we neared the lodge, we were encouraged to take off our shoes and walk the final stretch across the beach. It was there, on the beach in front of the lodge, where GweGwe’s staff – all dressed in blue and white Pondo-themed attire – welcomed us in song. With a glass of bubbly in hand, we felt right at home.
GweGwe Beach Lodge consists of seven Deluxe Suites and two Family Suites, pinned on an elevated piece of land overlooking the ocean. The lodge’s design is simple, yet striking, with lots of Pondo-inspired elements bringing things full-circle. The family rooms are spacious, with the main bedroom and the second bedroom divided by a little lounge. Wooden detail and scatter cushions romantically play with rays shyly making their way through the windows as the sun peeks over the horizon at dawn. Pathways lead guests down to the lagoon and the beach, and up to the main lodge, where a fishing-inspired bar and a lovely lounge area with a large fireplace invite you to sit back and be. Meals are served in a humble restaurant to the one side of the lodge, boasting both indoor and outdoor seating and spectacular ocean views.
Humble in essence, GweGwe Beach Lodge still boasts a good balance when it comes to barefoot luxury.
The Impact of GweGwe Beach Lodge
Dr Div de Villiers, former Director of the Provincial Department of Environmental Affairs and currently the Conservation Advisor for the Mkambati Nature Reserve and GweGwe Beach Lodge, says there is much more to the reserve and the lodge than meets the eye.
For starters, the northern part of Mkambati Nature Reserve was only recently declared a private concession, with seven surrounding local communities having won the land claim and now owning the entire nature reserve. These communities consist of more than 40 000 people, who all need to benefit from the land. According to Div, the GweGwe Beach Lodge project is probably the best way for these communities to benefit financially, as they receive 9% of the net income, get direct and indirect jobs, and have the opportunity to undergo training in various areas.
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Div interacts with the land trust and the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency, as well as those working at GweGwe Beach Lodge, on a regular basis. “There’s just a complete buzz of positivity and thankfulness for the work that’s been provided by this project. I’ve been involved at Mkambati for more than 30 years and there’s never been this positivity about the park itself and the work that it’s providing for local people. I can vouch for that. And, it’s good work. It’s good training; it’s the upskilling of local people, teaching them to build properly and work in the hospitality industry. There’s even been a request for fresh produce from surrounding communities, which can be used at GweGwe Beach Lodge.” Div says these are but a few of the spin offs from the GweGwe project. Not to mention the use of local taxi and transport operators to transport staff to and from the lodge.
Benefits towards Environmental Management
During our stay at GweGwe Beach Lodge, one thing was clear: There is immense commitment towards managing the natural environment to the best of their ability. The species found on the reserve and the cultural significance of the area form a big part of the GweGwe Beach Lodge experience.
“Obviously, any development – no matter how small – will have an impact on the environment,” he says. “Every effort is being made and has been made over the last 20 years to ensure that the development has as small an environmental impact as possible, but that’s not to say that there is no environmental impact. However, I think that with the various people that have been appointed and employed over the past number of years, they are making sure that the impact assessment is being complied with.”
Div says the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency also benefits financially from the project, which allows them to continue managing the Mkambati Nature Reserve despite dwindling government funding for conservation. In addition, the people who have been employed as guides have undergone extensive training in conservation matters, ensuring that both visitors and the local communities are informed about the sensitivity and importance of the environment.
The Gems of Mkambati
After exploring the estuary and listening to the harmonies of birdsong and waves gliding onto the beach, we had breakfast and then we went exploring. For almost the whole day, we got lost among wild orchids, Ericas and everlastings, dumbstruck by the immense diversity within the rather small reserve of only 7700 hectares. In fact, Div affirms that – besides the scenery – the biggest attraction on the reserve is probably the flora. Mkambati Nature Reserve falls within the Pondoland Centre of Endemism and he says: “You’re looking at some 200 species of endemic plants that only occur in this Centre of Endemism and many of them are in Mkambati. There are more than 2000 different species of plants in this tiny area.”
We went on a marine walk too, which taught me more about the ocean than I’d ever known. Marine enthusiasts would be happy to know that the greatest migration on earth – the Sardine Run – can also be experienced from GweGwe Beach Lodge. In fact, it just recently took place and GweGwe guests were taken out to sea to dive amongst the whales, sharks and dolphins.
The Mtentu River – with waterfalls falling into it – is a must-see. The river forms the northern border of the reserve and according to Div, it’s here where you can witness the phenomenal Giant Kingfish migrations, with huge amounts of these apex predators coming into the river to ambush prey.
Another highlight is the Mkhambathi Falls, where the Mkhambathi River drops directly into the Indian Ocean. Not to mention all the waterfalls along the river, including the Strandloper Falls and the Horseshoe Falls. “Just the amount of waterfalls in such a small area is incredible,” says Dr Div.
He also loves the so-called Superbowl, which is where you look down onto a huge, ancient forest and while you’re standing there, you can also see waterfalls all around the area. The birdlife is phenomenal too, particularly the vulture colony on the cliff faces of the Msikaba River gorge.
It’s still wild out there
Staying at GweGwe Beach Lodge offers a glimpse of what the Wild Coast must have been like hundreds of years ago. The Mkambati Nature Reserve is still largely untouched, unlike many other areas along the 300km Wild Coast where thousands of people, illegal structures and even some unsightly legal developments have changed the face of the ancient coastline forever. It’s a world of wonder, with grasslands, forests, swamp forests, waterfalls and the Indian Ocean as the perfect backdrop. “It’s certainly one of the marvels of nature,” says Div.
As we drove back to the lodge on the last afternoon, a black-rumped button quail scurried beside the vehicle’s wheel, dashing away in a matter of seconds and then – lucky for those who didn’t spot it the first time – popped up one last time before disappearing from sight. It’s rare species like this that one can expect to see when staying at GweGwe Beach Lodge – apart from the unfathomable views across waterfalls, sandstone cliffs and gigantic gorges.
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