Cape Town was showing off on my recent visit, with the cold weather subsiding for a few days and blessing me with some of its best end-of-August weather possible. As we strolled down to Salsify at The Roundhouse, I intentionally breathed in the crisp mountain air as the sun slowly set, thankful for moments that stop you in your tracks and remind you of the little things that often matter the most…
First Impressions at Salsify at The Roundhouse, Cape Town
I could smell September in the air as the Camps Bay dining spot’s doors opened up, welcoming us into a hand cleansing ritual – one of two new rituals the restaurant has recently launched – with lavender confirming the scent of the new season. Quite apt too, as the new season sees Salsify restaurant revealing its third interior transformation in just four years.
From there, we were escorted to the Preservation Chamber (the old private dining room) – complete with the historic building’s original masonry – where we were served a welcome drink in the most elegant glassware. Rooted in history, the room and its walls clearly have many stories to tell. We slowly sipped on the sweet tipple with a hint of spice as we curiously scanned the charcoal-coloured walls, covered in street artist, Louis de Villiers’ (aka Skull Boy) graffiti, paying homage to the history of the 300-year-old space. In fact, if you look closely, the graffiti features hints of one of the building’s initial inhabitants, Dr James Barry. (*More about Dr Barry below)
Executive Chef and co-owner of Salsify at The Roundhouse, Ryan Cole’s showcase of the pickling, fermentation and preservation of South African ingredients is beautifully presented in the Preservation Chamber, where chefs in crisp white uniforms attend to patrons with state-of-the-art serving utensils. The welcoming cocktails were accompanied by frozen ‘suurtjies’ (wood sorrel) which many South Africans will remember from their childhood. At Salsify, they are more elegantly presented than in our childhood memories, though. In fact, the ‘Suurtjies’ were impressively served with delicate tongs – a silk-like cloud from the dry ice tray it was dished up from gently twirling and then gliding over the single stem. These nostalgic, delicate leaves were the perfect palate cleanser prior to the delightful dinner that followed, while also setting the expectations rather high.
Fine Dining Under Origami Flowers
Passing through Salsify Restaurant’s Seasonal Room with its impressive Origami ceiling installation, I was once again reminded of the three pillars on which the restaurant has been building its existence all along: History, seasonality and sustainability. In collaboration with designer, Jean Francois de Villiers, Chef Ryan brought his vision of the season to life. Using thousands of Salsify’s old menus (some dating back to the opening of the restaurant), they adorned the Seasonal Room’s ceiling with Origami flowers, meticulously folded into various sizes, symbolising Salsify’s journey, as well as its continuous commitment to sustainability. As I stood under the paper flower ceiling, I could barely fathom the hours that went into the project. “While the roof presents hours and hours of work for my team and I, it was well worth it,” says de Villiers. “Seeing something as flat as paper become something so textured and varying is unparalleled.”
CULTURE WINE BAR LAUNCHES ITS OWN WINE LABEL
A Top-Class Menu for Fine Dining in South Africa
Dinner was served at an elegantly prepared table beside the large windows overlooking Cape Town’s mountains at sunset. We could choose between two menus – The Winter Special or the Chef’s Menu – opting for the first, with the addition of a wine pairing (which I highly recommend, as their sommelier certainly outdid himself with the wine choices).
‘Rys Vleis en Aartappel’ kicked off the second part of the evening, beautifully balanced on an elevated copper coil. It was accompanied by a Coal Cooked Oyster with Spekboom and Ginger, followed by a gluten-free version of Salsify’s ‘Weskus Brood’. The Pegasus Pinotage 2021 was paired with the following dish, featuring Cold Smoked Tuna, Amasi Whey, Dill and Sorghum. Then, since we opted for the gluten-free option, we were spoiled with Gnocci and a Gorgonzola foam I would return for time and again. This was paired with Brookdale’s Field Blend 2023. Beef Fillet with ‘Familie-Meel’ and Kapokbos Dombolo followed, accompanied by Mooiplaas’ ‘Rosalind’ 2011. Then, as the evening slowly drew to a close, a duet of desserts had us mesmerised. Firstly, a Madagascan Vanilla, Guava and Amaranth. Then – for the grand finale – the ‘Toast & Marmelade,’ consisting of a silky-smooth Kumquat Souffle and Toasted Rice Ice Cream. The Keermont Fleurfontein 2022 went exceptionally well with it.
Dining at Salsify at The Roundhouse is one of those things you just have to do when you are in Cape Town. In fact, it’s the one Cape Town Restaurant that needs to be on everyone’s bucket list. Whether you’re a South African or whether you’re visiting from afar, the nostalgia at Salsify is not only tangible, but you also get to taste it. And, since Chef Ryan Cole is one of South Africa’s top chefs and culinary visionaries, you’re bound to experience a newly reimagined space and exceptional cuisine every time.
*Born Margaret Anne Bulkley or Bulkeley, Dr James Barry’s entire adult life was lived as a man in order to be accepted as a university student and pursue a career as a surgeon. Serving in numerous parts of the British Empire, including Cape Town, Dr Barry’s true gender was only revealed to the public and to military colleagues after a post-mortem examination.
Images: Renate Engelbrecht
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